Outside Fashion / Fashion photography from the Studio to Exotic Lands (1900–1969)
Outside Fashion. Fashion Photography: From the Studio to Exotic Lands (1900–1969) shows an extensive selection of vintage fashion photos and magazines drawn from the collection of the Palais Galliera, the City of Paris Fashion Museum. The exhibition is the result of a unique collaboration between Huis Marseille and the Palais Galliera.
Fashion photography first arose at the end of the 19th century, in the studios of portrait photographers. In the early 20th century people began to simulate outside locations in the studio, with the idea of showing clothing in the most appropriate setting, and in the years that followed photographers gradually moved towards on-location fashion shoots. Racecourses, bathing resorts and woodland walks became the ideal settings in which to display the latest fashions, and these were the years in which fashion itself took its first steps outdoors. In the mid-1930s fashion photography was given a new impulse by the rise of photojournalism. This gave rise to a new aesthetic, one inspired by documentary photography. The work done by Jean Moral (1906–1999) for Harper’s Bazaar is a good example of this development. After World War II the city of Paris itself became the setting for many haute-couture shoots, providing an iconic background for fashion photos in a way that strongly influences fashion photography to this day. The 1930s also saw the birth of tourism to distant locations; Boeing aircraft brought the most exotic locations within reach, including for Vogue’s Henry Clarke (1918–1996).
Outside Fashion is curated by Sylvie Lécallier, curator of photography at the Palais Galliera. It will show about 150 photos by a variety of photographers from the period 1900–1969. Besides the above-mentioned Jean Moral and Henry Clarke the exhibition will include work by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, George Hoyningen-Huene, Henri Manuel, Paul Nadar, Reutlinger and Séeberger Frères. The couture they photographed came from such iconic fashion houses and designers as Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Fath, Hermès, Poiret and Schiaparelli. The photographs themselves were first published in specialized fashion magazines including Excelsior Modes, Fémina, Harper’s Bazaar, Le Jardin des Modes, Les Modes and Vogue, some original copies of which will also be on display.